A little More Love: July 2012

I’m a lover of menswear, & men’s fashion is something I thoroughly enjoy designing on and off.

The one wardrobe essential for all males, from every age, cast, creed & country, is - a basic well-tailored suit.

Zegna, Gucci & Armani have by far, some of the most fabulous suits made. It’s just their perfection in tailoring, hand-sewing and brilliant craftsmanship that makes these suits so.. flawless.

But if you’re going in for another brand, or getting one tailored locally, there’s a couple of things that are essential.

The intricacies of a well-tailored suit are never ending. I could go on and on, picking on the necessary details required in a classic suit, but I’m going to try and give a brief overview instead.

Quite obviously, it’s best to go in for a suit that suits your personality & body type. But if we’re looking at basics, know that:

1. A classic black suit is a key essential, if you don’t have one in your wardrobe – please invest in one.

2. The FIT – Often, I find that men go completely wrong with suits that are just not their size. It’s extremely unflattering to view an obviously ill fitted ensemble.

Perfection lies in the fact that a men’s suit jacket must fit snug-enough so as, the front button closes just right, but loose enough for him to comfortably breathe. That, in fact is an Italian suits-maker’s secret.

Make sure to avoid the excess bagginess around the arm-hole, the unnecessary creases are a complete NO.

If the suit makes you look leaner, know you’ve picked the right one. Skinny trousers look best on a lean frame. While a relatively greater amount of ease works well for a broader frame.

3. The LENGTH – While focusing on the fit, many forget the extreme importance of the fact that the length of the trouser &

suit jacket should be perfected based on your body type. Not too short, not too long. This is subjective.

4. The FABRIC – If you’re going in for a classic suit, I’d always suggest to opt for either pure wool or terry wool, based on your personal requirement, choice & climate.

While pure wool is more expensive, it keeps you warm & is extremely comfortable. Terry wool, on the other hand, keeps you cooler & is available in a variety of price ranges. But since a classic black suit is a long-term investment, don’t feel the pinch if you go in for a rather expensive brand of fabric.

TRICK : If you take a part of the fabric, clasp it by holding it tight and then release it, notice the structure. If it has wrinkled, don’t buy it.

5. If you don’t like the feeling, don’t wear it. It’s most necessary to feel good in what you’re wearing. If you think there’s something that could be further perfected in your suit, don’t hesitate. Whether it’s adding another button or altering by half an inch, do it if need be. Perfection comes with practicing change.

6. The DESIGN – Okay, there’s about a million details under this bracket, so if I sit to elaborate, I’d be extending this post largely. I could go into the intricate design details like, vented pockets, flower loops, inter-linings, cuff-links, etc, etc etc. So, before I get carried away, let’s stick to simple basic design requirements

POCKETS – In addition to the basic flap pockets, it is essential to have enough pockets to suit your requirement.
LINING – If you’re getting your suit tailored from a local brand, then insist on the best quality of lining available. It may not be visible, but seek comfort first.
LAPEL – The lapel could be very broad or narrow. There’s hundreds of lapel styles to choose from. Notched, shawl, rounded, double breasted, etc. But to keep it simple, a semi-narrow lapel suits most body frames. The very broad one’s aren’t particularly trending this decade.. or ever.
VENT - Key design feature. A vent is the slit usually present at the back or on the sides of a suit jacket. A center back vent is evergreen. Side vents are a relatively more British trend. And no, don't even think of opting for a ventless suit jacket.
TIE – Skinny ties are my personal favorite. Don’t opt for a thick tie unless you have to. (By “have to”, I mean unless it’s a life and death situation). In short, go in for a thin tie, please

Dolce & Gabbana

Who summarizes "Suits" better? Ed Westwick

Drake for GQ

Ed Westwick for Philippe Plein

Self-illustrated.

So, that sums up my longest post till date.

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Thank you! <3

To see with a concurrent vision, view with eyes of ingenuity and master the art of creating excellence with one click - Mario Testino, at his very best. It’s hard to define a man with this kind of an undying vision.

For all those who aren’t aware of this creator’s magic, then you’re in for a startling treat.

From Gucci in it’s earliest days, to becoming the man behind some of the best covers in the history of fashion photography. From Princess Diana to Kate Middleton, Kate Moss to Lady Gaga. We see no limit to Testino's success.

It’s seemingly difficult to find a supermodel that hasn’t been victim to Testino’s flash.

The Peruvian genius’ work dates back to the 70s. From selling portfolios to young aspiring models for a mere 25 pounds; to moving on to transforming himself into a celebrated genius is what’s most inspiring!

Who would have known that a child who once aspired to be a priest, would grow up to be one of the most eminent fashion photographers the world has to see.

I've previously spoken of my favorite Tim Walker, here, whose style is quite the opposite of Testino's. What I absolutely love, is the diversity this world has to see. While Walker remains to be an extremist when it comes to exploring craziness & creating beautiful drama; Testino knows how to dramatize subtly, conceptualize with precision and present relatively more real yet impeccably fabulous photographs.